Review: Bespoken - the second encounter
Massimo Dutti Jacket in olive wool | Galard burgundy pocket square | Bespoken made to measure shirt | Brooks Brothers burgundy cotton chinos | John & Paul dark brown derby shoes | Blazek burgundy wool tie
Bespoken is taking pretty good care of me. A year before, they offered me to try their services and order an MTM shirt. I described my experiences and how I feel about the shirt here.
Now, one year later they suggested me to try that again, so I can see where they develop their services, quality and craftsmanship after some time. And I did. So the following text will reveal whether I would recommend this service, what details might have been better or which are pluses of this service and their final product.
A quick recap of the first shirt. A thin 100% cotton in a herringbone pattern. I chose quite a tight fit, nowadays I would aim for a different one, but this is a fault of where my style developed, not the shirt. Wrinkles are creating a lot; I don't mind it, however, now I'd recommend people who might not like it to consider carefully choosing cotton. Collar stiffeners are sewn inside. I didn't pick the cutaway collar as lately I don't prefer it with a tie so classic it is.
Now the new one a bit of compare with the "old" one. Material is Plymouth white (100% cotton, twill, quality - 80/2s, weight - 135g/m2) and with its weight is a medium-heavier category. I like these shirts also in summer as they have a better capability to absorb sweat. In compare with the first shirt, the second one appears to be "richer" and much better made. Not sure if behind is changing of supplier or material choice. I would only warn that ironing is tougher with this specific material, you can notice that on title photo.
About fit, I deliberately aimed for a looser fit (doesn't mean loose in this case, only not so tight) so I entered measurements bigger than before. However, the fit is again, quite close to the body. This is not the fault of my measurement; all of the measures sit with mine on this shirt; however, it may be influence by the measures of the shirt parts that you cannot enter. I hope this is understandable. Now I would enter even larger numbers; maybe I'll try it again someday. Or this could be solved by one of their other solutions which I haven't tried yet.
The collar is a big difference. Not better or worse - different. It is very stiff; definitely, you'll recognize it as the first one was quite soft. Which is the reason I would give the customer the possibility to choose the stiffness of a collar. I debate with Bespoken representative who told me that according to their client's survey, people don't want to make that choice.
I completely understand that for most of the men, this is something which they don't consider necessary. However, it depends on how you want to use this shirt - if formally, then it is ok. But if casually, then it might be a problem. It would be for me. However, it finally has removable stiffeners which make collar last much longer.
The website changed as well, now it is much better. You are able to recognize the pattern of the fabric, which is a crucial moment when ordering a shirt online. More materials are also now available.
What deserves attention is a monogram, on the first one, it wasn't sewn well, and I thought it is some kind of a mistake. The second shirt has the same issue. However, Bespoken promised me to investigate what could be wrong and fix it.
My conclusion is that I still love classic tailor more either for personal relationship and also because I love it, and it is a form of relaxing for me as well. However, Bespoken is an excellent solution and choice for two types of people.
If you want to save money as Bespoken shirts are relatively cheap, lower than my last several purchases from a tailor. Or if you don't have much time to spend. Also, tailor requires at least two visits regarding one garment, sometimes more if the final condition demands more alterations.
Plymouth white cotton (100% cotton, twill, 80/2s, 135g/m2)
Details of my shirt:
Material - Plymouth white (100% cotton, twill, 80/2s, 135g/m2)
Collar - Classic
Cuffs - Angled cuff, one button
Back - None
Placket- None
Pocket - None
Buttons - White (now they have MOP which I'd have chose)
Contrast sewing - None
Monogram - Right cuff, white
Contrasts - None
That way you can replicate this exact shirt if you like it.
And there are actually a few more things I would like to add. I am not originally from Prague but a little Village in South Moravia. And if you live there, it might be tricky to get yourself to a tailor or a good store as this requires visiting a bigger town. So for people who live like that, this could also be great.
In my opinion, configurators like this are better for formal shirts but informal ones I'd give priority to playing with them more in person than over the internet. I don't know; maybe it is the stiff collar that stuck in my head or fact that ordinary people wear informal more so it could be better to play with it to the tiny details. Of course, if you choose button-down collar you can configure safely shirt here, no questions asked as the collar cannot be stiff with this type of collar.
Or maybe it is experience. I remember that when I was sitting at the tailors, and we were debating my new shirt, I always was pretty quickly done with formal shirts. But those I wear for joy in my free time (or sometimes pulling out with a suit as well) such as dark navy MTM in silk (which I need to show you sometimes) or vintage striped one with Cuban collar, those caught my attention much more.
Anyway, I gave you all my thoughts, and it's your turn now. Try Bespoken and tell me your experiences. You'll find the Bespoken website here. Or tell me about your favourite shirt from a tailor right away. I gladly listen to some inspirations.
Yours Sincerely,
Denis
