The Autumn Knitwear Guide 3/3
Last time I told you that carefully chosen knitwear can repay to you very well and be your companion for a decade or even more. Trust me or not; it is true.
This start with the material, we must be talking of 100% wool (the higher percentage, the better - obviously). If it is a blend of materials such as polyester, polyamide or other similar ones, you are missing the properties of the wool. It won't be so warm, flexible and even not such longevity.
Yes, the companies will be telling you that the polyamide part is here for holding the shape of the garment. But the truth is somewhere else - it is much cheaper. And for me, it is a sign - "Denis, stay away from a company like that".
If you did not know this yet, wool also has a self-cleaning ability. Wads, clots or pilling on cloths if you want is a process when wool itself is getting rid of unwanted particles and dirt. Also, maybe you noticed that even if you sweat a bit into a wool sweater, all you need to do is put it on fresh air for a while and voilá, everything is as new.
You don't have to wash it often, once or maximum twice washing procedure per year is enough. If we suppose you are not an expert for food stains every two weeks on the same crewneck. Often you must wash such clothes and yarns in hands or with delicate program on your washing machine and on low temperature. Point being said, it's ecological. And fewer worries for you is also a great plus.
I love versatility of light knitwear. Formal or casual, it’s up to you… PH: Petr Honc
As the beginning implies, I want to talk about brands today. Which have my trust already and I can cordially recommend them and to which I want to entrust my money with next purchase.
I will also split these producers into different price categories in order to make it easier for you. Plus I will add some of my recommendation on budget. However, understand that for a quality piece of garment, it'll never be easy in a matter of price. Quality costs something which is something I am trying to learn everyone, but it comes with a few significant advantages.
If your next clothing purchase will be four times more than you usually spend on clothes but stay with you five times longer than before, is it alright? I'd say it is very much alright. Also, you will be enjoying a much better garment than until now. So better piece of garment, for less, when you consider the price per wear. A deal worth taking.
Anyway, let's start with the topic "on a budget". If you are looking for quality knitwear, that stands up against time, there are a few things you need to know. I'd recommend brands such as Massimo Dutti, Mango, M&S or some local brand you may have. The task is simple: look for 100% wool (lambswool, alpaca, merino, escorial, shetland, cashmere or others). No exceptions.
Whether you are a fan of the aesthetic look of things you buy or not, this could also provide a hint, if the sweater you are buying will be okay. Just pay attention to details. Better brands with a focus on quality often end up with garment looking better than their competitors. Therefore, in this case, I would give up reasoning like "doesn't matter how it looks as long as it serves its purpose".
One more thing for you to understand, these brands are not different only because of the price, the wool after it is sourced goes through sorting where the thread is divided into exquisite and fine yarns and the worse ones. And the second ones buys companies that are keen to push the price of their garments lower. That being said, just for you to understand the whole story. But, even such a sweater will have greater performance than cotton ones (which are suitable for warm weather) and definitely better than synthetic materials or blends with them.
Note: Prices of brands below are for an entry-level sweater (Not for other products).
$ category: Category "on a budget" or I can say the brands where you may begin your experience with woollen knitwear. Entry price that might persuade you to reconsider your priorities for the future. If you want to get as low as possible, I'd recommend Mango or Marks & Spencer, however, be aware of things you need to look at. Like I wrote above.
Jamieson's - Family owned business which is specialised in sourcing wool from the native Shetland sheep for five generations. Since 1893. Therefore, Jamieson's is also supplying the wool as a wholesaler to other makers as well. (Shetland wool sweater from £112)
Structure of Jamieson’s shetland wool sweater - PH: Petr Honc
Massimo Dutti - In my opinion, a great starting point. Despite the fact, we are talking Ortega's company where also belongs Zara and other cheap stores with crappy quality, protagonists of fast fashion. Massimo presents a better quality with a focus on material and craftsmanship. Even if would not take this too seriously, I am quite happy with their products - black rollneck (wool, cashmere and silk), thicker sand rollneck (wool, cashmere) and very light grey cable knit crewneck (wool, cashmere). I have them for several years and consider them as great entry price compared to performance. You can also try their cashmere sweater to get the idea. (Cashmere from €149, wool app. from €59)
Ralph Lauren - No need to introduce, I put RL here because of accessibility and because of fact, that you can get their garments very often in some outlets or sales. Then you have a chance to get it almost permanently with 20-50% reduction. Just be careful, most of their knits are made from cotton as most preppy brands, not ideal for winter. (RRP - Merino from €149, cashmere from €299)
Suitsupply - One of my favourite choices, it feels like Suitsupply understands the needs of young people. However, everyone in every age can shop with them. I like they aim for perfect materials, and with every product the let you see, from what it is made and the fit is excellent as well. Also, the website is straightforward with enough information. Design and craftsmanship are on a very good level when compared to the price, which is considerably low for what you get. Cashmere, although starting for less than Massimo Dutti, I'd say it is much better quality. (Cashmere from €139, wool from €69)
Me wearing Suitsupply cashmere hoodie together with cotton/linen popover and gurkha shorts - same brand. PH: Petr Honc
$$ category: This category is not "normal" priced as middle position could imply. I'd rather call it "little expensive" or "expensive" for a lot of people. However, in the context of the worldwide overview, this is how it must be.
Colhay's - Currently my number one to try. Reviews and satisfaction of clients are to be known. It is a very young brand - founded last October if I am not mistaken; however, it is so focused on quality that I cannot ignore the amount of attention this brand gained from me. Also, the amount of information you find on their website about the thread and yarns is exquisite. (Lambswool from £185, Cashmere from £320)
edit:// After several monts later, I actually tried it and here’s review!
John Smedley - JS isn't something that comes to my mind when we talk about chunky knits. Its specialisations, the way I see it is thinner, smart knitwear. Such a v-neck, crewnecks and cardigans below the jacket. Their garments are enjoyable, worn directly on the body because of their excellent materials such as Sea island cotton and luxury blends. (Wool & Cashmere from £295, Wool from £170)
Johnston of Elgin - Since 1797, they built their expertise slowly in textile manufacturing, which has a firm position on the market today. Their knitwear is more expensive; however, their accessories such as cashmere gloves are quite affordable - it is worth to check them out. As average, they belong to this $$ middle group. (Lambswool from £119, cashmere from £341)
007 ribbed army sweater by N.Peal - PH: N.Peal website
N.Peal - is probably known to 007 fans. N. Peal is responsible for Daniel Craig's knitwear since Skyfall. Now they also released copies of knitwear from many Bond movies. Specialisation in cashmere since 1936. I am looking for some time to try out some of the product. Sadly yet I did not, but I have them on my "soon-to-try" list. (Cashmere from £185, however, more relevant would be probably from £259)
$$$ category: These are brands that have the reputation of being one of the best you can get in the world. Sometimes, there is a clear reason for their pricing, sometimes not (in my opinion), that is individual. However, for many people, this will feel as "outrageously expensive" category.
Brunello Cuccinelli - sometimes you can read about him as The King of Cashmere, which is a label that has here only price reasoning in my opinion. Undoubtedly, their stores are beautiful. Everything is soft to touch, beautifully looking but so does N.Peal stores. And €2.000 sweater from them is surely not four times better than one for €500. These are for the individuals willing to pay that amount for exclusivity. (Knitwear from €550, cashmere starts from €820)
Reservation of Loro Piana - PH: Loro Piana
Loro Piana - Now, there is arguably one of the most known brands worldwide when it comes to wool producers and knitwear. Even though people might know them more as wool producers for suits, jacket or overcoats. Here, I'd say the astronomical prices have a strong background. We could say Loro Piana is also interested in the industry into its core. They own a lot of sheep breedings and a lot of lands in several countries where the sheep lives. And therefore, they take care of the whole industry a contribute substantially to preserve this beautiful material for next generations in excellent conditions, and that is why you find yourself paying the price that high. Not many brands are investing so much into producing; instead, they are buying sourced wool from someone else. Oh, and I can't forget to mention that they also produce Vicuňa. The most exquisite wool on earth. (Knitwear from €863)
I hope this comprehensive guide brought you some value as intended. I tried to express my experiences and recommendation as much as possible. If you have any questions or opinion you want to raise, please let me know by comment or contact me.
And remember, if you consider more what you will buy and buy less at the end, you will end up with a better piece which will pay it off to you. And stays with you longer if you care properly.
Yours sincerely,
Denis
