Review: Colhay's Shawl Collar Cardigan
I was looking very much forward to present this review to you. I have Colhay's shawl collar cardigan for two months now, and I'll do my best to bring you my experiences.
I want to speak about the brand a bit, how it caught my attention and what I like about Colhay's. Then I'll proceed with why I chose to buy a shawl collar cardigan and my experiences with opinion so far. Finally, I say a few more words about details such as technology and material regarding this piece and conclusion if I would buy anything else from Colhay's again.
Let's do it then. I found out about Colhay's on Permanent Style - one of the world's leading menswear blogs and on Instagram. First, I liked how they present themselves, and when I visited a website, I fell in love. So many comprehensive pieces of information to the tiniest details. Such as what is ply, how you can make knitwear and what ways are good and why.
It actually inspired me to create a similar blog post in the near future. I already did "The Autumn knitwear guide", which consists of three parts (and which, of course, applies to winter weather too) but this was done excluded technical details and glossary.
Colhay's pride themselves to use one of the world's finest fibres, whether cashmere or lambswool - arguably thinnest and longest, those fibres promise you to have one of the rarest and finest knitwear. Cashmere fibres are on average 15.5 microns in diameter and 38mm in length. Lambswool fibres are on average 18.5 microns (while most lambswool averages between 21-24 microns) and about 42mm long. All according to Colhay's website - I must admit, you'll find out here fascinating information if you care about this subject. For comparison, human hair has approximately 70 microns.
Here you see a beautiful structure that consists of arguably the finest fibres in the world.
But they didn't settle with fibres only. Knitters from Hawick, Scotland are making sweaters since mid 20th century, but knitting began in this town already in the 18th century. Highly skilled craftsmen using machines and hand finishing and on Colhay's website you can find this: "Garments are "fully-fashioned". This means that each piece of the garment (e.g. sleeves, cuffs, body) is individually knitted up first into a specific shape before being hand-linked together. Much like a bespoke suit, this makes the finished garment more well fitted and wrap more naturally around the body."
I can safely say that if you know what's going on, knowledge and attitude on Colhay's website means they decide to challenge the very best makers in the field of knitwear. Finally, a piece of knitwear that lasts a decade and is made in the name of quality and the best what you can get? I desired to have one right away.
However, As I learn from Simon Crompton (author of Permanent Style blog), who pointed out what makes complete sense - expensive knitwear doesn't have to ensure lasting longer. Expensive knitwear often consists of more delicate, rare, finer fibre, which doesn't always last longer. That makes sense. But you know, the only possibility how to find out is to try for yourself.
I can answer the question of lasting after a few years. A few years also will take place testing that "Scottish knitwear may feel a bit stiff at the beginning, but will soften through the years". But to be honest, I like when knitwear feels stiffer.
After I collected all the information, I decided swiftly to go for a shawl collar cardigan. The lambswool collection's most expensive piece was just beyond the limit I was willing to pay, but what the heck. In the name of chasing quality, I wanted to test it and wear it. I decided on grey as I have a full wardrobe of navy and I wasn't sure about the ecru colour. Also, all grey colours are actually "melange" - many shades of grey in one, so it is very versatile.
To get it wasn't easy at all as XS size was sold out all the time. I usually wear Small but note that Colhay's shawl collar cardigan was intended to substitute coat if needed. Your usual size (maybe even size up) you can wear over the jacket, and on a t-shirt, it will appear to have a looser shape, and it will look bigger. Great for layering. Colhay's promoting it on photos often in this style. I wasn't interested in that, so I opted for size down.
Again, after restocked, the XS size was sold out within 5 hours. But Ronnie, the founder of Colhay's, was so helpful and informed me about return a few days later, which he promised to hold for me. A lovely gesture for which I am grateful. Attitude and customer service are a big part of the experience, and Ronnie helpfully advised me with size as well.
Cardigan arrived shortly after, and I was amazed since unpacking. Even if you are not a menswear enthusiast, I bet you'd recognise the difference right away. I meant how rich and densely it is knitted, how heavy it is and how it feels in hands. This sweater weighs 1.2 kilograms of pure lambswool, which is very heavy and probably the warmest sweater I've ever had.
Yet I am not overheating if I wear it unbuttoned at home over a t-shirt, and recently I tested it in -10 Celsius when I wore it with a shirt underneath and wool coat over the knit. Thanks to the higher button, you can also button the collar around the neck, which supplies scarves very well.
You can wear a collar in multiple ways. And use an upper button to be safe and sound when truly cold.
As it weighs 1.2 kilograms and it is 6-ply and 3 gauge (ply tells how many individual strands of yarn are twisted into a single thread and gauge means the number of stitches per inch - the higher gauge, the more stitches per inch, the finely stitched knitwear is) it is indeed more than thick. I found out that only one of my coats fits over the cardigan and perhaps also a Barbour jacket without waistcoat inside. It is not big enough to fit tailoring under it, which would be possible if I opted for my usual size, but it is possible to wear it with another knitwear. For example, I can wear a fine merino rollneck under the cardigan or waistcoat is not a problem, which is basically exactly as I intended. Mind that when choosing.
Probably my favourite situation to wear a shawl collar cardigan so far is when driving a car, especially now in the wintertime. Thanks to its ribbed knitting, it is very comfortable, without any movement restrictions, and when leaving a vehicle for a brief moment, such as a stop anywhere like a gas station, I don't have to look for a coat.
With the money spent on excellent knitwear, you're also buying a bit of responsibility. If you want it to last, there are things that can help you maximise its lifetime. Keeping it away from moths - dustbag (included) and lavender bags can help you with that.
Also, you won't avoid hand washing unless you use a good dry cleaner, which is perfectly fine. However, I wanted to do it by myself. With the help of The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo, I gently soaked up a cardigan and washed it after a few wears. The procedure wasn't that difficult as drying. I found out why Colhay's recommends rather bring it to the dry cleaner in case of this super chunky knits. It indeed dried two days or so, and I must have been changing towels underneath it.
This actually brought us to one thing I would say its not a plus, and that is pilling. Pilling is inevitable to some extent, and you'll encounter this with every knitwear in your closet. Washing is probably the best way to ensure settling down the fibres. Therefore I was curious if it gets better a bit. Well, not really. I find myself using pilling remover or The Laundress Sweater stone quite often.
The back beautifully drapes and holds shape thanks to heavy, dense wool.
My theory is that since fibres are so thin and delicate, there is, of course, much more of them in this cardigan than most of the knitwear; pilling then seems inevitable. But, this is the situation after two months of wearing and one washing. It may change a lot after a year or 3-4 washing. If so, I will update this post accordingly. For you to understand me correctly, it is not a flaw or a reason not to buy from Colhay's. It would probably happen with every knitwear in the world, more so if it's made of such fine material.
But again, if you wear it as a top layer, you'll minimise pilling at the outer side of the knit. Obviously, if you wear a coat or a jacket over the cardigan, it will create more pilling.
Here I thought only senior citizens wear hand in a cardigan's pocket, but it is so warm and comfortable that you will too.
Conclusion - I wanted a shawl collar cardigan for many years. Whenever I saw it on someone or in movies, I loved it - probably deciding moment was Charlie Hunnam wearing it in "The Gentlemen" when making wagyu steak for Hugh Grant in the garden (and looked stunning). I never bought one, searching for the perfect one. Drake's or Anderson & Shepherds shawl collar cardigans were runner ups, and the rest of the brands was not acceptable for various reasons. The V shape on the chest was not deep enough (the first button was too high). The shawl part behind the neck wasn't soft and thick enough. The leather buttons I was probably willing to accept, but the horn is much better.
By the way, thanks to Italian made horn buttons (you have one spare), you can notice that this is the work of someone interested in details - very thoughtful, and I love it.
Colhay's won, and the reasons behind my resolution were as follows - First-class material, thick and soft collar behind the neck, evident challenging of the best in the field that seems to go well so far. And I'd love to support that. Of course, the price is considerable, but when you see prices of the best and expensive brands, it's certainly not a shocking price.
Here you can see how easily can a cardigan supply a jacket. Or you can use it to dress down; suddenly, the waistcoat doesn't look so formally.
The word you are looking for, is snug. Here worn with white cotton bespoke shirt, Suitsupply houndstooth burgundy waistcoat, Suitsupply white cotton chinos, Pantherella over-the-calf socks in bordeaux merino royale wool and finally, Massimo Dutti brown suede loafers.
Overall, I love it, and I would recommend it to everyone who wants to have quality knitwear at home. Everyone who values the effort of craftsmen and enjoys to wear exceptional pieces will be delighted. I indeed plan another purchase from Colhay's. This time, I consider cashmere and well, when the time is right, I will undoubtedly give you another review.
I hope this post helped you with decisions or a mental picture of what to expect. Should you like to know more or ask about something that you didn't find here described to your satisfaction or not at all, feel free to let me know in the comments or through the Contact form.
I wish a lovely day to you all.
Yours Sincerely,
Denis
