On Comfort

I'm afraid I personally have to disagree with the thought that "t-shirt and sweatpants are the most comfortable clothes ever ". I'm not saying that this outfit is not comfortable. I'm saying that it is like you've said: "Pancakes are the best meal ". It means that you limit yourself on one thing instead of trying and eating a million other great things and that it can be strongly subjective. And, of course, sweatpants, just like pancakes, are not the right fit for every opportunity.

When reading Permanent style recently, this topic occurred to me, and I thought it is an excellent subject for solving. Well, I offer my point of view and interesting suggestion for discussion rather than solving.

I would also say that part of the comfort is also how I feel. Because if I feel good and confident in my clothes, my overall comfort is also higher. And though it may sound silly, it is also about versatility. Of course, that is pleasant to wear sneakers after a few days of wearing oxford shoes. And wool sweater after wearing a tie for four consecutive days. But it also goes the other way around. It feels good to wear a suit after a few days spent at home. It's good to have a number of choices in your closet.

John & Paul shirts are made for slim gentlemen and one of a few examples of RTW shirts with higher armholes. Otherwise, tailor is always option.

Anyway, let me mention examples you might not realize that can be very helpful. Let's start with the shirt armholes. Not everyone imagines very high armholes as a comfort thing. Still, low armholes are one of the worst things that limit your movement.

To have correctly cut armholes that resonate with your body is crucial as higher armholes allow better movement of hand without pulling the shirt out from the trousers. The shirt stays safely tucked even if you wave at someone on the street. Ask your tailor about this.

My new flannel trousers (part of a suit). A new favourite piece in my closet.

Trousers are mostly about the cut. I personally tend to drop wearing slim-fit trousers and prefer a wider fit. Not wide but wider than slim. Here you see trousers (above) - part of my new flannel suit, which I will cover in one of the upcoming posts. Side adjusters ensure a perfect fit as they sit on the belly, therefore high rise cut. Length is just right to kiss the shoe, but they are a bit wider than trousers you may saw on me in the past.

It is a joy to move, walk or sit while wearing them. Heavier flannel (340g) makes a good drape and appears to be dense and rich. Also, trousers cut like this (high-waist with a bit broader legs) makes your legs look longer and your waist sleeker and slimmer. Therefore, you look taller and thinner- quite useful advice.

However much you may like slim coats, remember that there always should be space for a suit or thicker knitwear. Meaning that if you wear a suit or a jacket under your coat, you can breathe. For some reason, even if men are not wearing skinny stuff, they still tend to choose a coat quite slim.

Maybe it's because you have some clothes under the coat already, and then your waist doesn't look slim and flattering. If you bring your coat to a good tailor, he can still highlight the waist, and you'll look good and to your satisfaction. Besides that, you can't breathe in a tight coat; you also miss your chance to make your chest appear broader. And that's a big miss unless you already have a large chest, which still applies to minority men.

My black DB coat with faux fur - see belt on the back? It’s appear a bit looser than it is now, I altered it. However, great example of how can belt highlight waistline with more material around chest or below belt.

Ph. Kuba Feranec

As mentioned above, there is a great way to have the coat bigger and still look very good and slim. Like a broader chest in combination with a back belt and pleats that run down the coat, remember that a back strap is keeping you optically thin, and this is all about playing with the perception of eyes. Moreover, such a coat will have plenty of space for spacious knitwear or flannel suit.

These are not meant to be rules, but a few subjects to think about when convenient for you. If you like them and find them interesting, consider trying them in the future and bear them in mind when choosing a new piece of clothes.

You could achieve a great fit in another way than with a super slim fit garment, like the broader chest. Or coat rich in cut and size and with waistline highlighted. Same - broader chest and then slimmer waist apply to suit jacket as well. You would not only look good in such choices, but you'll experience comfort like probably never before. Hence more confidence while wearing such clothes and isn't it what you are buying?

Yes, that's correct; it is.



Should you have any comments or personal preferences regarding comfort, I'd love to hear them in the comments below. Every opinion is welcome.



Yours Sincerely,

Denis

All photos (except marked one) by Petr Honc.