Buy less, wear more (and for longer)
This post will sound apparently contrary to the modern philosophy of dressing, mainly because of the fashion industry's behaviour nowadays. In terms of buying clothes, what appears to be standard these days? That is a fascinating question with equally exciting answers.
Lately, I've been reading some perspective from different kinds of people, and I especially liked one. It pointed out that word materialism is perceived as a bad word and even worse attribute. But I find out that a lot of people is using this word wrongly or lightly. Lightly, meaning that they are using it not aware if that word is correct in that particular case or not.
The word that we should use more often is overconsumption and lack of appreciation. Materialism as such is "a tendency to consider material possessions and physical comfort as more important than spiritual values". And because one is appreciating clothes or new coffee maker he bought last week does not mean that spiritual values such as love, appreciation of people and social work go aside.
Double-breasted cashmere coat with a white bespoke cotton shirt and silk tie will surely last for many winters to come.
Ph.: Misha Babel
On the contrary, I find true materialism rare these days. See, industrialization caused as result automatization of production. Therefore things in general, are easy to get, afford, produced. Still, for most importantly, easy to replace, that is why we place such low value on them. We don't value our jacket where just a hole appeared, we throw it away and buy a new one. That isn't materialism, that is lack of care and overconsumption.
And yes, the last word, since you can buy now t-shirt from a few euros and suit in Zara costs no more than 150 is the actual problem. Everything is so accessible, like never before and not just clothes. Imagine a situation hundred year back. One was patiently saving up for months, just to go to a tailor and then the piece of garment was altered, repaired and worn many times for many years. People placed value on them. That, of course, does not mean they did not put a value on their spiritual values. One does not have to exclude the other.
All around the world, at least in most countries, people earn more and more money than a few last years. You would say that this is an opportunity for us to spend wisely on things that lasts or save up so later I can decide to buy something that lasts. Yet, people are buying the same things, only they buy MORE of them. So, if someone is used to spend in Zara 100 euros for 5 items and somehow gets as a birthday present 200 euros, he will buy 10 things in Zara. Which he needs to replace after two years or even sooner because they are ruined, and their original price did not determine them as appropriate for repair. That would be higher than the price itself.
MTM suit in VBC 110's wool is another example of a garment that stays with me for many years to come. Already 2-3 years in my closet. By the way, tailored by Michal Trnka in Manemo back then.
Ph.: Petr Honc
A now, we are getting to my motto and idea behind my blog. Buy less, wear more and for longer. I carefully consider every purchase if this would be the right choice what I will be wearing for more years to come. Hence I have a few things where I need to be careful. The quality to wear it for the upcoming years is ensured by requisite craftsmanship of certain brands. Like it or not, this is the way it is. I'm not saying that lightly. For two or three years, I wrote down how many times I wore individual pieces from my wardrobe and concluded that this is indeed the way. As some cheaper pieces became within a few years unwearable, quality garments still hold as new.
Then we could start the debate about certain levels of qualities. Of course, we have many "levels" of the mentioned quality. When buying from someone with a higher standard, than usually, it, of course, doesn't mean we are buying the best thing in the world. There are many steps between.
Pantherella socks made from merino wool in a houndstooth design. One of the best price/performance socks I've ever had. With its added durability - I wear them fairly often yet no excessive spots occurred - Pantherella has my trust. As they make "The finest English socks" it is arguable one of the worlds best socks makers if not the best.
Ph.: Petr Honc
How to buy less and think more about it easily:
The things you must analyze before purchase are, for example, colour or a type of outfit that is suitable for you. For example, suppose your occupation does not require the wearing of a suit. In that case, if you have a few necessary suits in your closet, you invest your money elsewhere, such in a good pair of jeans or shoes. Or a suede jacket. One is not dressed amazingly just in a suit. Or perhaps your occupation does require a suit or at least separate. In that case, it is clear that you still be investing in more suits with different patterns and from other materials, so you have a larger scale of choice.
In that in your mind, you are also choosing colours, which goes well with you. For example, I have a small problem. Navy colour is the one I look best in and goes with my dark hair perfectly while it makes me younger. However, lately, I must shout STOP to myself. Don't buy any more navy stuff, because you need to work with other colours as well. And the monochrome outfit is not always a good idea. At least I don't like to wear it often.
Pure quality - Colhay's shawl collar cardigan made from the finest lambswool which comes from a special breed of South African sheep. Fully-fashioned in 6-ply and 1.2 kilograms of the soft and warm happiness.
I was trying to focus on the detail of knit itself; hopefully, you can see how densely knitted is this chunky cardigan made.
So I quickly analyzed my wardrobe and said to myself - darker grey or hunting green are the colours you don't have. Yet, you can combine them with the majority of your clothes. Broaden your horizons and be selective. Also, if I would just be buying the navy all the time, that would be overconsumption and not reasonable shopping. Nobody needs that much clothes in one colour.
My own mission here on the blog is to show you, that there are many great basic (or even a more eccentric) pieces, you can invest in, and they will give it back in their performance. Stays with you through many years, experiences, moments and will be your loyal companion. And if you choose wisely, their combination will be easy as never before. Also, many exciting brands are in play, pursuing perfectness and betting on quality. In my opinion, it is a shame to have so many chocolates in a bowl and eat just one all the time. This is not the way at least not for me.
One of the other reasons is this. I am no ecologist, I am careful with waste sorting and what egg I'm buying because my girlfriend wants me to. And there is no argument against, so I'm comfortable with that. But whenever there are clothes that are so cheap, that for that price they could not even get here from China, then my attention is turned on. If the price is low, it is clear that the supplier did not get paid well, the people who made it did not get paid well and so on. Sometimes behind factory like that can be illegal practices or production can have a harmful impact on earth or nature.
Barbour jacket is a favourite piece of many English gentlemen and other people who appreciate the heritage. Heavy waxed jacket resists wind, rain or thorns. This makes it ideal for wearing on long walks in nature. And even despite holes and other imperfections that may develop after few years of wearing, their owners continue to wear it with rising enthusiasm.
Ph.: Petr Honc
If you make things while using careful procedures in adequate condition to ensure the best possible result, it is never cheap. Not so long ago I've discovered one known clothing brand (and several others) that they are making some part of their range of goods on loopwheel machines. Especially sweatshirts or t-shirt as these are ideal for this type of tools. Old machines working at sluggish pace makes only 1 meter of fabric per hour - 10 times slower than modern machines. But when good cotton is used, the outcome is fantastic in terms of quality. For me, it is excellent that some older inventions were not thrown away but still have some usage.
I want to get you in the context in the correct way. To not always support company giants but also smaller companies, inventive individuals and other people behind products work so hard. It is about to take a break, step back to see the bigger picture and support those who are worth it. Take a step back and think for a moment if I need 4 t-shirts with logos. If I want to spend that money, wouldn't it be better to spend 2 or 3 times more for one that will be perfect in design and lasts 4 times more? The one I wanted for such a long time? Well, you know my opinion.
I know we all get bored sometimes and shopping is the way out of it. I recognize this behaviour also in me. But I try hard to think before I buy anything and not to support overconsumption.
This doesn't have to apply only for clothing. Quality accessories can be useful, as well. Kent brushes are unrivalled makers since 1777, and with their know-how, you only have to pay for good comb or brush once. Then you are set for many years to come.
Ph.: Petr Honc
That will be all from my side for today, and I am open to any debate here in the comments or personally if you want to contact me. If you already think before you buy, then I am happy for you. I am delighted if you prefer quality over quantity as you indeed prefer when it comes to friends, love or other things in your life.
