The Ultimate (Winter) Socks Guide
Pantherella - Egyptian cotton, Merino wool, Escorial wool, Cashmere and Silk socks | Massimo Dutti wool/cashmere sweater, blue suede sneakers and black brogue boots | Barbour jacket | John & Paul - Cotton/Cashmere socks, dark brown derby shoes + Berwick Patent leather shoes | Suitsupply - Alpaca/Wool Fairisle socks and double-breasted cashmere coat | Albert Thurston sock suspenders bought in Knize
Today on a cosy Sunday day which I'm spending on my couch, I have one more advice and comparison for you. I want to bring your attention to one subject of clothing and style which deserves much more attention than we usually give. And this inconspicuous thing is nothing else than the socks. Now you might think I'm nuts, how can I talk so much about something like socks. Well, believe me, that in the winter, you need that guide more that you need to know dress codes.
You might probably notice that even if you buy expensive great winter shoes - and you think that you just solved all your problems - this alone isn't enough to keep your feet warm. Even if you make that investment, shoes alone won't make it through low temperature which you'll spend outside. And if someone says they can, it doesn't seem to be right to me (unless they have thick cashmere lining). Anyway, The Art of choosing socks is something you need to master in winter to discover a new level of comfort. This guide will focus on materials such as cotton or its version and wool and its varieties. I will also mention some blends such as why we have nylon in socks or what is the result of cashmere and cotton blend.
But what is more important, with each I will provide you with a tip on how to wear it and my personal experiences and recommendations. I used some socks that I already possessed and spent a quite disgusting amount of money in Pantherella, one of the finest socks makers in the world. I did this all to find out for you and myself information for this guide because I must make my own opinion and experience on everything. And I will gladly share it now with you.
Pantherella navy egyptian cotton socks
First of all, we will start with cotton — most used material when it comes to t-shirts and underwear, especially to socks. There is no problem with cotton during the more significant part of the year. However, problems appear in winter. Cotton is not enough when you spend quite a lot of time outside, yet, people wear them all year round. But why? When winter comes, you change the way you wear clothes but only a few change socks they wear. However, even cotton, you can choose with care — for example, Egyptian cotton. Fibre stress is low thanks to handpicking instead of collecting them by machine. Humans can create a longer, and more delicate fibre which is also stronger, therefore with better comfort also comes longevity. And imagine when the sock is thicker - now you have companion also for colder days.
Recommendation & experiences - These are my personal favourite socks when travelling in winter by car. And by travelling, I mean a lot of hours - like my not so long ago way to Pitti Uomo in Florence, which for me, means 11 hours in a car. Its comfortable fit is a key, not tight or not so loose. They go best with chinos and more casual clothes, however, feel free to wear them with a suit as well.
Sometimes pure cotton is not enough. We have warmer and more delicate materials such as wool. It can be either mix of wool and for example nylon - such socks are more durable but still with traits of the wool. Mixed socks are also not that expensive. Then we can have socks made of 100% cashmere, wool or silk. Such socks are usually costly, very comfortable with luxurious feel but perhaps more delicate than you wish them to be.
John and Paul cotton/cashmere socks
A typical winter outfit - chinos, shirt, chukka boots and winter jacket
A mix of cotton and cashmere is suitable for a typical winter day when temperatures are around zero. It has traits of cotton but with a warmer and softer finish. Consider this mixture as an upgrade of your every-day socks.
Recommendation & experiences - As you can see, I wear them with my usual outfit in winter. Chinos, shirt and winter jacket, they are pictured with my dark brown suede chukka boots. These genuinely feel as classic cotton socks but with an added level of comfort and warmness. The fact that most of the sock is cotton and only a few percentages are cashmere makes it very durable.
Pantherella grey/blue merino wool houndstooth socks
Pantherella Merino wool Fairisle socks - thick
Merino wool has perfect thermoregulation plus it can absorb an enormous amount of humidity considering its weight. The result - you feel warm without any sweat. And I'm not even speaking about its antibacterial capability. Indeed, your socks won't be unpleasantly smelling also if you won't wash them right away. Exists in its thinner variant or thicker, which is an excellent company for spending long cold days outside.
Recommendation & experiences - These are my new favourite socks in winter days. I already have them in 3 different models - classic with houndstooth design, which is perfect for regular wear either with derby shoes and informal dress or sneakers. Thick Fairisle version is ideal for moments when you need to spend quite a long time outside or to be in freezing weather. And finally, burgundy Merino Royale 120's over the calf socks, are my favourite dress socks at the moment - warm comfortable and damn good looking. My recommendation if you want to know how premium and luxury socks feel.
Formal outfit - Double-breasted cashmere coat, made to measure suit and dark brown derby shoes
Pantherella Escorial wool socks
Another wool with a fascinating history is Escorial wool. Originally from Spain where in the 16th century was issued a ban that these sheep can never leave the country. But fate had other plans, and in 1830 a few flocks found their way in Australia. And when considering the fact, that original flocks in Spain died, the ones in Australia are the only that remains in the whole world. In 1967 was Escorial rediscovered and since then it is used in Scotch, England and Italy for finest clothing and accessories.
Recommendation & experiences - Escorial wool doesn't look rich like Merino but is more exceptional. I was a little bit disappointed as I had very high expectations. It is not as warm as I thought; however, it is a fabulous dress sock because of its good look and luxury feel.
Casual British style - Barbour jacket, wool/cashmere sweater and chinos
Suitsupply Alpaca/wool Fairisle socks
A small, unusual llama, native in Peru is called Alpaca. Relative to llamas, easy to mistake her with one, yet it is not. These little creatures are also living from Ecuador to Lake Poopo in Bolivia and probably everywhere are domesticated because of wool. And since they are living between 3.500 to 5.000 metres above the sea level, they are quite ready when it comes to cold weather and strong wind.
Recommendation & experiences - This is my number one recommendation when it comes to winter weather. Far more durable than cashmere, these ultralight socks make sure you are feeling good while wearing boots as well as sneakers. When you consider warming performance while they are so light, it is truly amazing - mine are from Suitsupply and usually mixed with wool. Needless to say, they are not a good choice when wearing a suit as the thicker design is predestining them for more casual outfits. Like this British-inspired with Barbour jacket and a thick sweater.
Pantherella red cashmere socks
Finally, the royal discipline, the Mongolian Achilles collected by humans in Mongolian mountains by archive ways is the cashmere. As I originally intended that this introduction into the material will be quite extensive, maybe it doesn't have to be as we all probably know it well. It is three-times warmer than classic wool. Only 0.5% of wool world production is cashmere. Its price may have no limits if you decide not to stay alone with socks. Makes possible to wear loafers even in November.
Recommendation & experiences - Cashmere socks are incredibly soft and warm with outstanding comfort. However, before you make that investment, I also want to warn you. I will quote Pantherella's website - "Cashmere socks should be only ever be worn with a moccasin, soft loafer or comfy slipper. Excessive wear will occur if wearing 'Hard Shoes' such as dress shoes, court shoes or boots". This information is, unfortunately, accurate, and that is the very reason why I mentioned "the Mongolian Achilles" - they are so perfect but fragile. Be happy with them, enjoy them till last but do not forget that there are only a few things in the world that needs care more than cashmere.
Pantherella Silk over-the-calf socks
Plus one more - typical for evening wear Silk socks. Some time ago I somewhere read that Manolo Blahnik was asked, what you should wear with Patent leather evening shoes. His answer was obvious - "The most expensive silk socks you can afford or nothing at all". The answer might be a little bit cocky, but sometimes, all we need is a slight exaggeration. Well, here we go, one more tip.
Recommendation & experiences - Silk socks are perfect as evening wear, they are light, and their shine is recognizable from far. As they are very light, you don't have to be afraid to wear them on balls where you will be quite sweaty. I can only confirm that this is true. My Pantherella black silk over the calf socks happens to be very comfortable with an enormously, luxurious feel.
After this quite an extensive description I am available for your question, should you have any. And I will add one more tip for those who have a certain kind of problem as well as I do. That problem is when socks are slipping down to the ankle. Quite in issue when wearing a suit as this is not that big problem when wearing informal clothing. For quite a long time, there is an adequate solution for which I would be praised by people standing on the side of very traditional ways - sock suspenders. There is nothing more manageable as to put suspender on your leg and with an ingenious steel/plastic eyelet, catch in your socks. This resolution is probably not visually pleasing, but it is practical and comfortable. I did not believe it, but when I tried it on my own, I must say it is.
Albert Thurston green socks suspenders
Oh, and there is an alternative answer as well. Wear over-the-calf socks :) with the right size; you don't have to be afraid that socks would slip down. I hope you enjoyed today's article and maybe, in the future, you will get back here as I for sure will.
Yours Sincerely,
Denis
